Continuing our Ten Commandments series of men’s fashion, today we are addressing the hallmark of men’s style, the suit. The suit may have taken a less prominent role in business dressing over the last decade, but for dressing up, leave the khakis at home. A great suit is where the big boys come to play. Let the following commandments be your style guide.
1. Thou shall buy off the rack and have it tailored, unless thy name is Rockefeller.
Very rarely will a suit off the rack fit you exceptionally well. Made to measure suits, and bespoke tailoring are exceptions, but out of reach for many in the price department. Having your suiting tailored blurs these lines, and more so makes the suit look like it was made for you, and you alone.
2. Thou shall limit thy dry cleaning.
Dry cleaning involves harsh chemicals, and stresses that shorten the lifetime by a measure of years. Unless yours gets a stain, keep the cleaning to 2 or 3 times a year at most.
3. Thou shall leave thy bottom button undone.
Why is the bottom button there, if it’s not meant to be buttoned? No one is really sure, but it’s just not done. It’s like spitting into the wind, or pulling on Superman’s cape. Avoid at all costs.
4. Thou shall own a black, blue and charcoal suit.
These three are your staples, the bread and butter, or meat and potatoes, of men’s suiting. Every man should own all three. These three can be dressed up, or down for nearly any occasion. You can even be buried in your black suit.
5. Thou shall match the weight of the suit with the season.
Heavier weight suiting will keep you warm when the weather turns cold, but make you sweat in the summer. Lightweight, or linen suits are great if you live in warmer climes, or are a cast member of CSI Miami.
6. Thou shall buy cotton or wool, or linen if your climate warrants it.
These, for most men, are the only acceptable and durable choices. The higher the count, the finer the suit, with the price rising accordingly. Shoot for Super 120 and above. Regarding velvet, silk, and other materials: if you have to ask it it’s for you, it’s probably not.
7. Thou shall buy 2 or 3 button suits, and tread lightly with double breasted.
Two and three button are classic, all other things being equal, and will not go out of style. One, four or even five button jackets seem to come and go, and follow short lived trends. Be aware of this, if you do decide to buy one. Double breasted can smooth out bigger guy’s bulges, but if done wrong, can add to the bulk in the torso area. Caveat emptor.
8. Thou shall have the proper accessories.
A suit is part of a full outfit. Do not, under any circumstances, completely slack on rounding out the look. You may not always use them, but a well dressed man MUST own the following: great shoes, matching socks, a great shirt, 2-3 matching ties, cuff links, and a tie bar or pin.
9. Thou shall consider American, British, and European styles..
American styles tend to be better for bigger guys, and have a very traditional and conservative look.
The British suit is very flattering if your of tall, average or athletic build, and tend to give an authoritative air to the wearer. Think of Sean Connery as James Bond as a great display of the English style. For most men. it’s hard to go wrong with the English style suit. European or Continental styles are NOT for bulky guys. This style is the most close cut and form fitting of the three styles, and can be a big boom or bust, so choose wisely.
10. Thou shall buy the best suit thy can afford.
This is not a time to pinch pennies. Think of the times you wear a great suit, interviews, important meetings, funerals, and attending weddings. In short, if you need to look your best, a suit is called for. Don’t mortgage the house to buy a a great one, but don’t pinch pennies either. A great suit is an investment into the brand of YOU. A great suit will last many years, and more than pay you back the purchase price in having you look simply amazing.
A Few Good Men’s Suits:
Calvin Klein Suit, Black Solid
DKNY Suit, Charcoal Solid Slim Fit
Hugo Boss Suit, Pasolini Navy Solid
Calvin Klein Suit, Black Stripe
BlueFly, my favorite online site for men’s suits.
What say you? What are YOUR suit commandments?
Big thanks to Daniel R. and Steve N. for your input!
Also check out The Ten Commandments of Men’s Denim and The Ten Commandments of Men’s Shoes.
(P.S. Stay tuned for the Ten Commandments of Men’s Shirts.)
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